The Arctic Bow

The Troll Peninsula -- Trollaskagi -- is one of Iceland's most dramatic and least-visited stretches of coastline. The road that winds along its northern edge, passing through tunnels carved through mountains and past fjords of startling beauty, is called the Arctic Bow, and the restaurant that shares the name aims to capture the spirit of this extraordinary landscape on the plate.

The Location

Siglufjordur sits at the tip of the Troll Peninsula, a small fishing town wedged between steep mountains and a deep fjord. For much of the twentieth century, it was the herring capital of the North Atlantic, a boomtown built on the silver fish that arrived in enormous shoals each summer. The herring are largely gone now, but the town's connection to the sea remains powerful, and that connection defines the restaurant.

The Food

The menu is built on what the harbour provides. Fresh fish of the day -- cod, haddock, arctic char, or whatever the boats have brought in -- is prepared simply and served with the confidence that comes from knowing your ingredients are impeccable. The fish soup is rich and warming, exactly what you need after a windswept drive along the peninsula. Smoked fish, prepared locally, appears in various forms.

Traditional Icelandic preparations sit alongside more contemporary approaches. You might find a classic plokkfiskur (fish stew) sharing the menu with a more modern grilled fillet. The kitchen does not overthink things: when the raw material is this good, simplicity is not laziness -- it is respect.

The Drive

For many visitors, the restaurant is as much a destination as a stopping point. The drive along the Arctic Bow route from Varmahlid or Akureyri is one of Iceland's most spectacular, passing through mountain tunnels, along clifftop roads, and through tiny fishing villages that seem to exist at the edge of the habitable world. Arriving in Siglufjordur after this drive, hungry and slightly overwhelmed by scenery, makes the meal that follows feel earned.

Practical Notes

Siglufjordur is approximately one hour from Akureyri via the tunnel route, or longer via the scenic coastal road. Opening hours may vary seasonally -- summer hours are more generous, and winter visits should be confirmed in advance. The restaurant is near the harbour, easy to find in a town this small.