MB Taqueria

Finding good tacos at 64 degrees north latitude sounds improbable, but MB Taqueria makes it work. This lively spot on Bergstaðastræti has earned a devoted following by doing something deceptively simple: taking the taco seriously, treating it as a vehicle for excellent ingredients, and creating an atmosphere that makes you want to stay far longer than you planned.

The Tacos

The tacos at MB Taqueria are not attempting to replicate a Mexico City street stall. Instead, they take the format -- soft tortilla, well-seasoned filling, thoughtful toppings -- and infuse it with Icelandic character. Fillings change regularly but might include slow-braised Icelandic lamb, fresh fish from the harbour, grilled vegetables, or more traditional Mexican preparations like al pastor.

The tortillas are fresh and properly made. The salsas range from mild to properly fiery. The toppings -- pickled onions, cilantro, crema, various sauces -- are prepared with the same attention to detail that the fillings receive. Order several varieties, spread them across the table, and eat with your hands. This is food designed for sharing.

The Drinks

The tequila and mezcal collection is impressively deep for a city this far north. Flights are available for those who want to explore the range, and the bartenders know their agave spirits well enough to make informed recommendations. Margaritas are well-made, and the beer selection includes options that pair well with spicy food.

The Atmosphere

MB Taqueria is loud, colourful, and infectious. The music is good, the staff are energetic, and the communal eating format creates a natural buzz that builds as the evening progresses. On Thursday through Saturday nights, when the kitchen stays open until 01:00, the place takes on the character of a proper night out -- good food, good drinks, good company.

Who Should Go

Groups get the most out of MB Taqueria. The family-style format -- ordering platters for the table, passing dishes around, trying a bit of everything -- is social eating at its best. But couples and solo diners are equally welcome. Anyone craving something other than Icelandic seafood or lamb after several days in the country will find this a refreshing change of pace.

Practical Notes

Bergstaðastræti is a short walk from Laugavegur, in the heart of the city centre. Reservations are a good idea for Thursday through Saturday evenings. The lunchtime menu is slightly reduced but still excellent, and quieter than the evening service.