Laterna

The Grandi harbour district has transformed from a working fishermen's quarter into one of Reykjavik's most vibrant dining neighbourhoods over the past decade, and Laterna is among the most accomplished restaurants to emerge from that transformation. Housed in Sólfell, a building with over a century of seafood history, the restaurant honours its setting by putting Icelandic ingredients -- particularly fish -- at the centre of everything it does.

The Building

Sólfell was built in 1921 for the production of bacalao, the salted dried codfish that was once one of Iceland's most important exports. The building's industrial character has been thoughtfully preserved: high ceilings, exposed structural elements, and the sense of solidity that comes from walls built to last. The restaurant design works with rather than against this heritage, creating a space that feels both historic and contemporary.

The harbour views add another dimension. Watching boats come and go while eating seafood that may well have been unloaded from one of them earlier that day is the kind of connection between plate and place that most restaurants can only dream of.

The Food

The kitchen blends Icelandic ingredients with Italian and European techniques, a combination that is becoming increasingly common in Reykjavik but which Laterna executes with particular skill. Fresh fish is the backbone of the menu: cod, haddock, arctic char, and langoustine appear in various preparations, all treated with the respect that ingredients of this quality deserve.

The Italian influence is subtle rather than dominating. You might find it in a pasta course, in the olive oil drizzled over grilled fish, or in the approach to simplicity -- letting one or two excellent ingredients speak without cluttering the plate. Seasonal changes keep the menu fresh, and the kitchen is clearly paying attention to what is available rather than working from a fixed playbook.

The Wine

A well-chosen wine list complements the food, with selections that lean towards lighter, seafood-friendly whites and rosés alongside more substantial reds for the meat dishes. The staff are knowledgeable and willing to guide you.

Practical Notes

Laterna opens at 17:00, Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends. The Grandi location is a pleasant fifteen-minute walk from the city centre, past the harbour and the various maritime-themed attractions that line the waterfront. It is worth combining a visit with a walk around the neighbourhood.