Fylgifiskar

Fylgifiskar is the sort of place you either know about or you walk straight past. Tucked away at Borgartún 26, off the main tourist drag, this family-run fish deli has been quietly feeding Reykjavik's seafood-obsessed locals since 2002. Founded by Gugga Logadottir and her family, it occupies a modest space that functions as both a fishmonger's counter and a luncheonette -- and it does both jobs exceptionally well.

The Food

The menu at Fylgifiskar changes with whatever has come off the boats that morning, which is exactly how it should be. The fish soup is the star: a rich, creamy bowl loaded with chunks of fresh cod, haddock, or whatever the sea has offered up, served with dense Icelandic bread on the side. It is comfort food of the highest order, and at a price that will not make your eyes water -- a rarity in this city.

Beyond the soup, expect open-faced fish sandwiches, smoked arctic char, gravlax with mustard sauce, and simple but perfectly executed pan-fried fish of the day. Nothing here is fussy. The kitchen lets the quality of the ingredients do the talking, which is easy when your fish is this fresh.

The retail counter is worth your attention too. Locals pop in for vacuum-packed smoked salmon, dried fish snacks, and whatever fresh fillets are available. If you have access to a kitchen during your stay, buying fish here and cooking it yourself is one of the best meals you can have in Reykjavik.

The Space

Do not come here expecting white tablecloths or harbour views. Fylgifiskar is utilitarian in the best sense -- a few tables, a glass counter full of fish, and the pleasant hum of a business that knows exactly what it is. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable, and happy to explain the day's offerings to confused visitors who cannot tell their plokkfiskur from their hardfiskur.

Who Should Go

Fylgifiskar is for anyone who wants honest, well-prepared Icelandic seafood without the fine-dining markup. It is particularly good for lunch, when you can eat a filling bowl of fish soup for a fraction of what the harbour-front restaurants charge. It is also an excellent stop if you are assembling provisions for a road trip around the island.

Practical Notes

The restaurant is a short walk from Hlemmur bus station and the eastern reaches of Laugavegur. It does not take reservations and the space is compact, so arriving before or after the noon rush is advisable. Saturday hours are shortened, and the shop is closed on Sundays. Cash and cards are both accepted, though like most of Reykjavik, card payment is the norm.