Esjustofa Cafe

Mount Esja dominates the skyline north of Reykjavik — a broad, flat-topped mountain that locals regard with something between affection and possessiveness. Esjustofa sits at its feet, a small cafe at the trailhead that serves the simple but vital function of feeding and caffeinating hikers before they go up and warming them when they come back down.

The Setting

The location is the entire point. Esjustofa ("The House of Esja") looks directly up at the mountain's slopes, and the view is immediate and dramatic. On clear days, the contrast between the green lower hills and the darker rock above is striking; on cloudier days, the mountain disappears into mist in a way that is its own kind of beautiful.

The cafe sits next to the main parking area, which is also the starting point for Esja's most popular trails. It is impossible to miss — if you have come to hike Esja, you will walk past Esjustofa on the way in and back.

The Food

This is not a restaurant. It is a hiking cafe, and it operates accordingly. The menu runs to soups (usually one or two options), sandwiches, coffee, hot chocolate, and cakes. The soup is exactly what you want after a hike — hot, thick, and filling. The coffee is fine. The cakes provide the sugar hit that tired legs require.

Portions are generous, prices are reasonable, and the food arrives without fuss. Nobody comes to Esjustofa for a gastronomic experience; they come because it is there, it is warm, and the soup is good.

Hiking Esja

The most popular route — the path to Steinn ("The Stone"), marked at 780 metres elevation — takes roughly two to three hours round trip for an averagely fit walker. The trail starts right from the parking area next to Esjustofa and is well-marked. On summer weekends, the mountain is busy with locals treating it as their neighbourhood hill.

For a shorter walk, the lower trails wind through pleasant terrain with good views and are suitable for families and casual walkers who would rather enjoy the mountain than conquer it.

Practical Tips

Seasonal opening. Esjustofa operates primarily during summer, roughly May to September, from 11:00 to 18:00. Outside this period, it may be closed or operating on reduced hours. Call ahead if visiting in spring or autumn.

Getting there. A 15-minute drive from central Reykjavik, heading north on Route 1 towards Mosfellsbaer. Follow signs to Esja/Esjumelar. Free parking at the trailhead.

Best for. Pre-hike coffee and post-hike soup. Also worthwhile as a destination in itself on a clear day when the mountain views are particularly fine.

Combine with. A morning hike on Esja followed by lunch at Esjustofa is one of the best half-day outings available from Reykjavik. Afterwards, the town of Mosfellsbaer has a swimming pool if your legs need loosening.

Esjustofa is not a destination cafe in the conventional sense. It is a functional, friendly stopping point at the base of one of Iceland's most accessible mountains. That it serves decent soup with one of the better views in the Reykjavik area is a welcome bonus.