Gjáin

Iceland's Hidden Garden

Gjáin appears without warning. One moment you are walking across a barren highland plateau of grey rock and scrubby grass, and the next you are standing at the rim of a ravine bursting with life. Small waterfalls tumble over mossy ledges, clear streams braid through green vegetation, and birch trees cling to sheltered spots between the rocks. It feels like stepping into a different country.

This small valley in the Thjorsardalur area of South Iceland has been carved by the Rauðá river over millennia. The sheltered ravine creates a microclimate that supports far more vegetation than the exposed terrain above. The result is a green oasis in an otherwise sparse landscape — a place that has inspired Icelandic folklore and attracted visitors for generations.

Exploring the Valley

From the small car park on the plateau, a trail descends steeply into the ravine. The path is rough and can be slippery, so take your time and watch your footing. Within a few minutes you are surrounded by the sound of running water and the sight of dozens of small cascades pouring over dark basalt ledges.

The main waterfall, Gjárfoss, drops several metres into a clear pool at the heart of the valley. Smaller falls and springs emerge from every direction, feeding the network of streams that criss-cross the valley floor. The moss is thick and vivid green, coating the rocks and creating the fairy-tale atmosphere that Gjáin is famous for.

There is no formal trail through the valley itself. You pick your way along the stream banks, hopping across rocks and finding your own viewpoints. Some stream crossings require stepping stones or a careful wade — waterproof boots make the experience much more enjoyable.

The Broader Thjorsardalur Valley

Gjáin sits within a larger area worth exploring. The reconstructed Viking longhouse at Stong, a few kilometres away, shows how settlers lived in the 11th century before the eruption of Hekla buried the original farm in ash in 1104. The Hjalparfoss double waterfall, where two streams merge and plunge side by side into a blue pool surrounded by columnar basalt, is one of the most photogenic waterfalls in South Iceland and only a short detour.

Getting There

From Selfoss, drive east on Route 30 and then Route 32 into the Thjorsardalur valley. The turnoff to Gjáin and Stong is signed. The final stretch of road is rough gravel that can be challenging in a regular car, particularly when wet. A 4x4 is recommended. There are no facilities at the site — no toilets, no shop, no mobile reception. Bring everything you need.