Matarbarinn

The Westman Islands sit off Iceland's south coast like a volcanic afterthought -- a small archipelago born from eruptions, shaped by the sea, and home to a community of fishermen, puffin enthusiasts, and people who prefer their Iceland with a ferry ride attached. Matarbarinn on Kirkjuvegur is one of Heimaey's reliable dining options, serving the kind of honest food that an island community needs.

The Food

The menu is built around what the island provides, which means fish features prominently. The catch of the day comes from the harbour, often landed the same morning, and is prepared without unnecessary complication. Grilled, pan-fried, or in soup -- the fish is fresh and the cooking is confident.

Beyond seafood, there is lamb, burgers, and the kind of hearty plates that sustain people who live and work in a place where the weather rarely cooperates. The portions are generous, the flavours are straightforward, and the kitchen does not try to be something it is not. This is island food for island appetites.

The fish soup is worth ordering if it is available. Warming, rich, and full of the flavours of the surrounding sea, it is the kind of dish that tastes better when you can see the harbour through the window.

The Setting

Matarbarinn is casual and welcoming. The interior is simple, the atmosphere is relaxed, and the staff are accustomed to both locals and visitors. On Heimaey, where everybody knows everybody, restaurants have a community feel that is difficult to replicate on the mainland. You might find yourself sitting next to a fisherman, a museum guide, or a family celebrating a birthday. It is all part of the island experience.

Why the Westman Islands

Most visitors to Iceland's south coast drive between Vik and Seljalandsfoss without giving the Westman Islands a second thought. That is a mistake. Heimaey is extraordinary: a volcanic island with dramatic cliffs, a still-warm lava field from the 1973 eruption, the best puffin colony in Iceland, and a harbour town with genuine character.

Practical Tips

Take the ferry from Landeyjahofn (35 minutes) or fly from Reykjavik domestic airport. On the island, everything is walkable. Book a table during summer, when day-trippers from the south coast fill the limited restaurants. In the off-season, walk-ins are fine.

Combine lunch at Matarbarinn with a visit to the Eldheimar museum and a hike up Eldfell for views over the archipelago. It is one of the best day trips in Iceland, and most visitors wish they had given it more time.